Waterman. It’s a word that I’ve often detested. A word I always viewed as the product of surf industry giants in an attempt to sell more useless product that has no relation to the average surfer. A word created to justify spending outrageous amounts of money on watercraft and equipment that the average surfer really has no business using. A word created to draw even more masses to the beaches and quantify such behavior with the hint of some sort of ancient Hawaiian dignity. Jet skis, standup paddle boards, kiteboards, outrigger canoes, hyrdo-foil tow boards, the list goes on, all bound by a word attempting to justify the money spent with a bit of soul…

But then I met Dave.

Dave is a true waterman. But it’s not in his ability to ride a wide arrange of craft on the water, it’s his love for being in the water.

I grew up watching videos of Dave tow surfing Jaws, tackling massive waves like it was an average beach break. Absolutely fearless. And yet, when I met Dave, it was 2 foot day, absolute crap… And I think he was more stoaked than anyone. He stayed in the water all day, I don’t think he even ate. He just surfed. I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen anyone that happy in waves that small. It was absolutely amazing. One of my big waves idols from childhood was happier than ever on a standup in waist-high mush? Really?

Ah, a waterman. I get it now. Enjoying every moment of what we do, regardless of conditions, and realizing how fortunate we are to get to do what we love. It was definitely inspirational to see.

But in trying to keep an open mind (and more importantly, keep myself in the water), I’ve given it a shot, and it is a stupid amount of fun… I haven’t had so much fun in 2 foot surf since I was 3 feet tall. If you can’t beat em, join em I guess…

Surfer: Rachael Spear