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Updates from Fiji
I swear I’m spending more time underwater than above lately, it’s pretty freaking cool down there… Here’s an image of Kai Lenny at Namotu. Enjoy.
Inspirations, Dave Kalama.
This is a new addition to my blog that I like to call Inspirations, a image essay of people that do amazing things. The first image in this essay is an portrait of Dave Kalama.
Waterman. It’s a word that I’ve often detested. A word I always viewed as the product of surf industry giants in an attempt to sell more useless product that has no relation to the average surfer. A word created to justify spending outrageous amounts of money on watercraft and equipment that the average surfer really has no business using. A word created to draw even more masses to the beaches and quantify such behavior with the hint of some sort of ancient Hawaiian dignity. Jet skis, standup paddle boards, kiteboards, outrigger canoes, hyrdo-foil tow boards, the list goes on, all bound by a word attempting to justify the money spent with a bit of soul…
But then I met Dave.
Dave is a true waterman. But it’s not in his ability to ride a wide arrange of craft on the water, it’s his love for being in the water.
I grew up watching videos of Dave tow surfing Jaws, tackling massive waves like it was an average beach break. Absolutely fearless. And yet, when I met Dave, it was 2 foot day, absolute crap… And I think he was more stoaked than anyone. He stayed in the water all day, I don’t think he even ate. He just surfed. I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen anyone that happy in waves that small. It was absolutely amazing. One of my big waves idols from childhood was happier than ever on a standup in waist-high mush? Really?
Ah, a waterman. I get it now. Enjoying every moment of what we do, regardless of conditions, and realizing how fortunate we are to get to do what we love. It was definitely inspirational to see.
Updates from Fiji
I don’t have a name for this guy yet, but several times he’s accompanied me while shooting images of the waves. I think he really enjoys having his picture taken…
Standups? Updates from Fiji.
Alright, I’ll admit it. I’m really starting to enjoy this whole standup paddle board thing. It’s something I always swore that I would never do. I considered it a plague, clustering waves back home and creating what were already chaotic lineups even more painful to paddle out in. Something for aging kooks with an extra $1500 to drop and redefine themselves as “watermen.”
But in trying to keep an open mind (and more importantly, keep myself in the water), I’ve given it a shot, and it is a stupid amount of fun… I haven’t had so much fun in 2 foot surf since I was 3 feet tall. If you can’t beat em, join em I guess…
Updates from the South Pacific
Stingers. I hate these things with a passion. But they are beautiful…
Updates from the South Pacific
Still lacking swell here in Fiji, but with the winds subsiding there has at least been a little something to surf. More swell is due for later in the week, so more images are on the way.
Updates from the South Pacific
As trade winds prevail, the surf has been limited, but we are still able to find a few waves. Here’s an image of a grinder at Cloudbreak a few days ago, was more of a lip than an actual wave, but made for an interesting shot. Enjoy.
Updates from the South Pacific
With the prevailing trade winds and lack of swell here in Fiji, I’m still finding myself overwhelmed with subjects to capture in this amazing country. Here’s a few sample images taken the past couple days. Swell and diminishing winds are forecasted for the upcoming week so stay tuned for more imagery.
Updates from Indonesia
Here’s another quick selection of images from my latest trip to the Mentawai Islands. I’m off to Fiji for more images, but will continue to post images from this last trip. As always, it was another amazing Indonesian experience. I would like to thank Kandui Resort and all the crew I was with on this trip, it was definitely one I will never forget. More images soon.
Updates from Indonesia
Here’s some more select images from Kandui in the Mentawai Islands off Sumatra. Enjoy.
Updates from Indonesia
Here’s another quick selection of images from the trip thus far. While strange weather and winds have prevailed, it’s still been blessed with waves and beauty. Indonesia is such a visually overwhelming country. It really is as if everything is larger than life. Stay logged on for more images of waves and the country they are home to.
Updates from Indonesia
Hey everyone. I’m sorry for not posting any images in a while. I recently embarked on another trip to Indonesia. This is the first part of a daily blogging of images from the trip, these images being taken on the way into Sumatra. There’s plenty of swell on tap so stay tuned for more of the latest images. Enjoy.
New Prints Available on The Blue Room Collection
Here’s a select group of prints available as high quality giclee prints on The Blue Room Collection. Enjoy!
More Mentawais
Here’s a few more select shots from latest trip in the Mentawais. The surfer in two of the images is named Phil Goodrich. I’ve been wondering who this man was for years now, he always seems to be a permanent fixture at Lances Right, he’s that unmistakeable guy that’s always there. An incredibly smooth surfer, I came to find that he’s also a quite talented artist as his girlfriend recently contacted me after seeing one of my blogposts featuring an image of Phil. I’ve always known that the surf world is small, but it seems to me it seems to be getting smaller and smaller.
I’ve attached a link to Phil’s artwork site, as I found his creations to be quite thought provocative. It’s definitely worth a look. philgoodrich.imagekind.com
More images and prints on the Blue Room Collection coming soon.
Sumatra-Skies on Fire
Here’s an image from my last charter in the Mentawais. At the anchorage one night we were fortunate enough to witness one of the most incredible lighting shows I have ever seen. It was almost if though the sky was on fire. More images soon.
Sumatra-Part 1
Here’s a select few images from my most recent charter in the Mentawai Islands. This will be the first part of a daily blogging of images from the trip, and with the many waves had over the course of the two week adventure, there will be many more exciting images. Be sure to stay logged on and enjoy.
Farewell Pacifc, Hello Indian Ocean
After 7 incredible weeks in Fiji it is time to say goodbye. It’s been a trip filled with not only countless waves, but filled with countless memories as well, the kind that you’ll never forget. I’m sad to say goodbye to Fiji, but at the same time, I am looking forward to the adventure ahead. I’m off to Indonesia, and a new road awaits.
Here’s a short slideshow of some highlight images from this year so far in Fiji. Stay logged on for upcoming images from the Indonesian archipelago, and enjoy.
Updates from Fiji- Swell Has Returned
After a shot lapse in swell waves have arrived again. Here’s a few quick images to keep you entertained. Stay logged on for more images from this swell. Surfer: Kane McKill
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